Things to remember about large-scale costumes

The Titans panel was so informative that I wanted to write down all of my notes and share with everyone. I am not sure if I will be attempting something large-scale anytime soon, but it definitely helps in many other aspects of costuming as well. Panelists Kathleen O'Shea David and Cheralyn Lambeth were extremely helpful in answering the audience's questions about their own large costumes, and had a great deal of other tips and tricks. If you have any additional knowledge, tips, tricks, or suggestions leave a comment!

Materials

• Materials: foam core, cardboard, bike reflectors for eyes to reflect light, salad bowls, shot glasses, aluminium spoons for scales, EVA foam, polystyrene foam is good but will melt and exude toxic fumes, 
• Using wax sealing - ventilation inside costume is crucial
• Flexible aluminium - new product out there made in Australia, hard to work with
• Kitespar - lightweight material

• Rabbit skin glue material is organic (they warned about working with organic materials)
• Face Molds: Alcone (spelling?) brand is good, can ask for product sheets; also Liquid Latex USA
• Porous material: use layers and layers of Elmer's glue - it will get inside pores and create a smoothed finish.
• Wood glue: sandable and waterproof!

• Cardboard is cheap and being used for lightweight & large costumes - you just have to know how to seal it up and finish it! Layer after layer of white glue (think Elmer's). Paint can be mixed into glue.
• Realistic tails/ protrusions - use alternating discs (small, big, small, big, etc), thick elastic bungee for securing parts together and achieving movement.
• Realistic skin on a prop/costume - can use latex. Practice by painting large pieces of latex on flat flooring, let dry between layers, and finally peel off with the help of friends.
• Miscelanneous materials: strong but hollow is good for weight (tent poles are hollow and flexible)
• Large structure: bamboo or old fishing rods

Mobility & Comfort

• Ask yourself: how will you be able to get around doorways/revolving doors/ stairs/ etc?
• Ventilation and staying cool: athlete gel vests work well, do not wear directly against skin!
• Mobility: ask con staff to help you get around, they can get in touch with hotel staff, or vice versa (think service elevators)
• Support: military backpack frames supports weight on hips
• Stilts: overturned cans, arch support in shoes, for inside reinforcement use an intruder cross-structure, MUST HAVE traction (rubber is best)
• Built-in support: military flag belt holder will support long rods for arms or other protrusions

• You will need a handler to help you get around
• Building above the head: use an alice frame
• Building no-neck (or large shoulders) - a break in your elbow is not natural to the costume, you will need to create a new break in the elbow for the costume.
• Built-in support: military flag belt holder will support long rods for arms or other protrusions

Miscellaneous

• More stuff on www.therpf.com
• Look up Comicon's wired robot
• Trying to be pro? Start a portfolio!